I was a bit disappointed to see that the softener did not seem to have any effect on the decal (thickness at play here again). However, the use of a hair drier (at lower setting) made wonders! Used with a Microscale soaked cotton swab to push the decal around the part, everything took its place with no fuss. A dry swab was useful to remove bubbles and creases, and now the thickness had a positive effect: the decal is strong and does not want to tear easily. It showed me that a smaller surplus of decal was better: the larger one has to fold over itself. I am not really bothered by that since I wanted to put CFRP decal only on visible areas, thus excluding the underside of the endplates. I finished the job with the larger, flatter pieces, which were much easier to put into the right place.
Showing posts with label front wing. Show all posts
Showing posts with label front wing. Show all posts
Sunday, 18 April 2010
Carbon fiber decals
Yes I know: I usually complain about how difficult I find to place the supplied decals, and now I want to put CFRP decals everywhere... No logic here, but only the wish to get one more notch in detailing the kits. CF decals come in plain sheets, mine were bought at Scale Motorsport. They keep decals for the main modelling scales and have different weaving patterns. I chose one which is quite common (1000 series) as I wanted to try it on a few selected parts, but others are available in different patterns and colours (to simulate aramid fibers for example). There are some bits of advice coming with the decals and they prove quite useful.
My first trial is on the endplates of the front wing. The outside face is painted dark green but the inside one shows the base material. I used the Formula Perfect book to find the general orientation of the fibers. Since there is no template, the first thing to do is to create one. In order to do so, I put a piece of masking tape over and around the shape of the part to be covered. I cut it out directly on the part and then place the tape on the decal sheet and then cut out the decal. After the mandatory time in warm water and the usual soaking of the surface of the part with Microscale softener, my first surprise was to see how thick the decal is. With thickness usually comes stiffness and I suddenly was confronted once again with what I hate most about decals. How will that stick to the part, and with how much damage will I end up? The vortex generator of the end plate was indeed a challenge and I wanted to find out what gives better results: a larger excess piece of the decal or a smaller one. How will either wrap around the bulge of the part?
I was a bit disappointed to see that the softener did not seem to have any effect on the decal (thickness at play here again). However, the use of a hair drier (at lower setting) made wonders! Used with a Microscale soaked cotton swab to push the decal around the part, everything took its place with no fuss. A dry swab was useful to remove bubbles and creases, and now the thickness had a positive effect: the decal is strong and does not want to tear easily. It showed me that a smaller surplus of decal was better: the larger one has to fold over itself. I am not really bothered by that since I wanted to put CFRP decal only on visible areas, thus excluding the underside of the endplates. I finished the job with the larger, flatter pieces, which were much easier to put into the right place.


I was a bit disappointed to see that the softener did not seem to have any effect on the decal (thickness at play here again). However, the use of a hair drier (at lower setting) made wonders! Used with a Microscale soaked cotton swab to push the decal around the part, everything took its place with no fuss. A dry swab was useful to remove bubbles and creases, and now the thickness had a positive effect: the decal is strong and does not want to tear easily. It showed me that a smaller surplus of decal was better: the larger one has to fold over itself. I am not really bothered by that since I wanted to put CFRP decal only on visible areas, thus excluding the underside of the endplates. I finished the job with the larger, flatter pieces, which were much easier to put into the right place.
Monday, 5 April 2010
Front wing
Primer takes place before nice coats of hard paint. The lower front wing is painted Camel Yellow (TS-34) first. The end is then masked and the rest painted Racing Green, as well as the outside of the end plates and the flaps.When I removed the masks on the lower lip, I found out that paint eventually found its way under the tape (not a real surprise, I am anxiously waiting for what it will look like on the cockpit) and I had some touch up to do. A smooth sanding of the extra green paint resulted in making the primer visible on the edge of the area where the nose will be attached. Fortunately I had some Golden Yellow from Citadel, which is quite close to Camel Yellow, but flat. Hopefully it will not show after a few coats of clear.
I used decals to finish the wing: the Good Year ones were not a problem at all. Then I cut out the blue stripes from the main decals of the flaps and finaly the Burmha logo. It is fascinating to see that the Camel Yellow and Racing Green match the colours of the original decals, with more shine as a bonus. So far clear coats have not messed the decals like with the Lotus 49, and I am glad because that would have meant that another kit would have to be bought to start again (for what? fourth time?).
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