I created this blog because I could not find the kind of tutorials I needed for some models and miniatures I wanted to build. I hope it will be a useful source of information for anyone who may experience the same lack of first-hand, step-by-step reports.
I am not an expert by any means, so feel free to comment my posts or to contact me to share your advice.

Sunday 17 May 2009

Front sub frame part 1

I am painting this one from black and white pictures from Michael Oliver's book, so it is hard to tell the right colours. However I did not choose to have it painted the same green as the body, as can be found on race cars. The main plate is covered with two brushed layers of Tamiya flat aluminium. With primer applied beforehand, the paint covers the part nicely and a good finish is easy to obtain. The small diamond-shaped plates and bushings were painted Citadel boltgun metal and then covered by a slightly diluted flat Al layer. It gives them a different shade of aluminium. I spread a black wash to the part in order to hilight the different elements of the subframe.

The arms were painted with Citadel chainmail, so as to get a darker metal shade. From pictures of the assembly of chassis R1 in Oliver's book, the arms looked to be painted, as some chipping was visible around welded areas. As the pictures are in black and white, they can't reveal the colour of this paint. I chose to go with stiffer steel-like arms attached to an aluminium plate. The rugged effect on the model will help to give a welded look.












The steering rack was painted flat aluminium and inserted as described in the notice. The operation damaged the paint somehow but all will be hidden behind the oil tank, so that is not much of a problem. It needs some play to work properly inside the brackets. The pinion get into place with some effort, as the rack bends in order to accomodate the metal part. As I do not plan to use the steering wheel, it may as well be glued to the subframe...








The two parts of the oil tank were glued together and the parting line leveled a bit before some Tamiya putty was applied. I used a piece of plastic bag to spread a small drop of putty over the parting line, and with 2 layers of it it is not visible anymore. Of course, sanding is required between layers in order not to get a rough and uneven surface. However I really like the textured aspect left at some places. After all the real part is a welded gathering of bent sheets of metal, hammered into place to leisure (and even kept there with a bungee!).

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